The times have changed in West Byfleet, and we’re not just talking about the landscape.

Words like ‘gel’ or ‘bonbon’ would never have appeared on the menu when Sheer House first rose above the village in the 1960s, and ‘charred’ would only apply to a steak.

Such terms are more common these days, especially in residents with a certain pricetag, run by someone who knows their sous vide from a souffle.

But while you’ll find them on the menu at Yarrow @ West Byfleet, the prices are a little more down to earth.

Yarrow, named after the “hardy, perennial wildflower” with “fern-like leaves”, is one of the newest additions to the village’s culinary scene, occupying a prime space in the Botanical Gardens development.

The restaurant, with its calm lighting, wood panelling and green-tiled kitchen, is run by Kyle Robinson, a man with Michelin-star experience having worked under Marcus Wareing at The Gilbert Scott in St Pancras.

Stints closer to home have included The Cloche Hat in Chobham but now he’s in West Byfleet offering a menu “crafted with the finest, seasonal and locally sourced ingredients” with a contemporary twist.

The menu is compact, and very well priced, with brunch, lunch and dinner options. A breakfast classic like Eggs Benedict is just £8, while the sandwiches – roast beef, smoked salmon, fish finger – are around the same.

There’s healthy “fresh and nourishing” options like a super food salad and an array of small plates.

We can recommend the cured salmon, for instance, its freshness contrasting with the crunch of crispy kale and the pepper of horseradish. The white crab fishcake with its black garlic mayor, chicory and dill salad also seemed to be popular during our lunchtime visit.

The bonbons and gel mentioned earlier feature in the Pork Belly main (£17), being of the black pudding and spiced apple variety, respectively. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender with the tender stem broccoli and carrot puree adding more bite, colour and goodness.

There’s lamb, beef, fish and pasta dishes as alternatives, keeping to the pattern of five options, with the dessert menu not deviating (all £7).

Sticky toffee pudding and a cheese board may appeal more to purists, but the freshness, acidity and balance of the Orchard apple parfait and Clementine curd tartlet – complete with charred meringue – were the perfect conclusion to a lunchtime treat.

Words may dazzle, but the food at Yarrow does the talking. https://www.yarrowatwestbyfleet.co.uk/